Here, we don't rush from point A to point B. We meander, sometimes even a lot. But it's never a waste of time because not only is the scenery magnificent, but it's different every day. We suggest you get lost on a few small roads that are worth the detour. Ideally by bike or motorbike, but you can also venture there (carefully!) by car.
the Lacets of the Besorgues
The Besorgues is one of the prettiest rivers in Ardèche. A gem that winds and tumbles from waterfall to waterfall in a steep valley, from the high plateaus of Ardèche to its confluence with the Volane near Vals-les-Bains.
Although this wild river is difficult to access, there is a wonderful road that plays with the river and goes up the river to its source.
By car or motorbike, it allows you to go from the lower Ardèche to the Ardèche plateau in just a few kilometers: another world.
By bike, it's quite a challenge because the 29km are an almost continuous climb with 1100m of elevation gain, but the spectacular scenery is worth it.
Vals-les-Bains > Labastide-sur-Besorgues > Lachamp-Raphaël
the road to Craux Castle
Driving to Antraigues via this narrow road is like taking a postcard-perfect detour. From the Volane Valley, this road first climbs in magnificent bends on the slopes of the Craux volcano, up to a 12th-century castle overlooking the valleys. Then it takes you towards Antraigues, offering breathtaking views of the mountains, valleys, rivers, and the village of Antraigues, which you gradually approach. Between the Col de Genestelle and Antraigues, the dizzying views are strangely reminiscent of Corsica, minus the sea but adding traces of past volcanism.
By car or motorbike, it's a detour you won't regret taking as the views are breathtaking.
By bike, you need strong calves (or electric assistance) to climb the 4km that connect the Volane valley to Craux castle, because some sections exceed 12%.
Volane Valley > Valgirone > Col de Genestelle > Antraigues
the road to the Juvinas pass
This road links the Besorgues valley to one of the prettiest passes in Ardèche, even if it is not at a very high altitude (718m).
This small stretch of asphalt begins in the steep-sided valley of the Besorgues. Then the road rises above the river towards a pretty village: Juvinas. After passing through the village, it winds through the chestnut trees until the landscape magically opens up and reveals a splendid 360-degree viewpoint. It's impossible to resist the urge to stop near the cross, take the time to contemplate and say "wow"...
But the show isn't over yet. On the other side of the pass, the road descends gently towards the hamlet of Libonès (famous for its enormous meteorite), offering one of the most beautiful views you can have of the peaks of the Tanargue.
Whatever the mode of transport, it is an accessible road, with little traffic, which is definitely worth the detour.
The ridge road, from Escrinet to Mézilhac (D122)
This is a wider and busier road than the previously mentioned routes, but it is no less picturesque. From the Col de l'Escrinet to the Col de Mezilhac, this road flirts with the ridges of the Haute Ardèche for 25km.
The viewpoints follow one after the other, each more breathtaking than the last, but none is like the others. Col de Sarasset, Col de Lafayolle, Col des Quatre Vios… the panoramas open up one way to the south towards the southern Ardèche and beyond, one way to the west towards the highest peaks of Ardèche and Haute Loire, one way to the north towards the Boutières. From all sides, the view is splendid.
Aubenas > Col de l'Escrinet > D122 towards "Mont-Gerbier de Jonc"
the Echelette road
This road is here to remind us that size doesn't matter. A rather modest stretch of asphalt, barely 4km long. But we dare you to take it without your eyes shining.
From St-Privat (near Aubenas), the Route de l'Echelette first skirts the Louyre canyon before winding through the limestone cliffs bordering the Jastres plateau. Once you've completed the hairpin bends, you'll arrive at a magnificent garrigue plateau where you'll find a real, relatively little-known treasure: the Oppidum de Jastres. The ruins of a Roman oppidum that dominated the Aubenas basin and the Ardèche valley. Park in the small parking lot and venture (very carefully) towards the oppidum and the cliff to admire the view.
Aubenas > St-Privat > Turn right towards Lussas
